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Bali: A 2 month odyssey

In 2022, my wife Ankita and I undertook a 2-month trip to Bali. It feels unbelievable and unreal that we actually did it. Somehow rough notes, internet bookmarks and Google map pins transpired into one crazy trip.

This long post is intended to serve 2 purposes. One, as our personal trip diary and two, as a guide for other footloose travelers who are heading to the shores of Bali.

Here’s the outline:

  • Introduction
  • Trip duration
  • Map
  • Where to stay
  • What to see
  • Activities : diving, surfing, trekking and waterfalls
  • What to eat and drink
  • Where to : work, shop, party, relax
  • How to go around
  • Language and common translations
  • Weather
  • Visa and extension
  • Money : cash, ATMs and forex
  • Local sim, internet and useful apps
  • Other stuff : supermarkets, safety, early morning travel

Introduction

Bali is gorgeous. There are no two ways of saying it. The Instagram photos for once, are actually true. Actually the photos, even after all their filters and touch-ups, still don’t do justice. You have to see it for yourself.

We spent the months of July and August 2022 traveling the full length and breadth of Bali. And we still couldn’t get enough.

If you’re thinking of going to Bali, stop thinking. Go.

How long should your trip be

In an ideal scenario, two weeks of vacation. Two weeks give you the best shot of exploring not just Bali, but the islands of Gili and Nusa Penida at leisure. Shorter is possible in which case you either have to rush or trade-off some amazing places.

If it’s a workation, then at least a month. A typical Indian work schedule (10 AM to 6 AM IST) translates to 12:30 PM to 8:30 PM Bali time. So you’ll have plenty of time every morning to go see places. This is how we went around in the first 6 weeks and last 2 weeks of vacation.

Map

Where to stay

No matter where you stay, the farthest point in Bali can be reached in under 5 hours. So most places can be covered as a day trip.

If you decide to stay in one place, we suggest you make Ubud your base as it’s a good point to travel in multiple directions.

If you decide to stay in 2 places, you can pair Ubud with either Kuta/Canggu/Sanur. Typically these places are crowded with tourists, but that’s the price to pay for choice of hotels, taxis etc.

If you’re considering something off-beat, you could go farther to Uluwatu or Lovina too!

We stayed in 6 different places in our trip. A week each in Ubud, Uluwatu, Amed, Lovina, Munduk and Sanur. Each place has its own vibe. I’ll describe each of them further in the post.

What to see

Let’s break these into 3 categories.

These are places you’d need as proof to tell somebody that you indeed went to Bali. They are touristy and crowded. For a reason after all.

B. Other hits

These are places that are not very touristy but take effort to reach. In most cases, the reward is worthwhile.

This category has a lot of places, each of which appeal to certain travelers. Time and distance will determine what can be pulled off.

C. Remote

Stuff that can be done if you’re willing to explore farther than the bounds of Bali or places nestled deep in the inroads.

  1. Tanah Lot temple

The poster-child of Balinese temples. A temple set on a rocky outcrop in the ocean, why not! Best visited at sunset to witness the golden hour. Sprawling shopping area too where stuff is significantly cheaper compared to other places in Bali.

  1. Uluwatu temple

Temple complex atop the southern cliff of the island of Bali. Walk along the ridge and take in the endless vista of the Indian ocean. Again, best visited at sunset. The Kecak dance here is spectacular too, performed in an amphitheatre overlooking the ocean. Tickets get sold out quickly and good seats gets occupied quickly. Do take that into account. Beware of monkeys. They are notorious.

  1. Sacred Monkey Forest

A sprawling dense forest with lots of amusing and intricate sculptures. And numerous monkeys of course. Well-behaved, unlike Uluwatu.   If you ask us, the place doesn’t really classify as a must-see for Indians given we see enough monkeys.

  1. Ubud palace and market

The cultural soul of the island, Ubud is enchanting in every way. We’d take a bet that it is almost everyone’s favourite place in Bali. There’s a temple in every house, and a dozen sculptures in every temple.

Stroll across the busy market, pose and take pictures in the palace and Saraswati temple, eat at the restaurants with uniquely Balinese interiors, guzzle a cocktail or two… you’ll love the place!

  1. Tegallang rice terraces and swings

TBH, there are rice terraces everywhere in Bali and Tegellang is not unique by any means. But it’s still a lovely spot to take pictures, have some nice coffee and try the iconic swings.

  1. Tegenungan

A very accessible and panoramic waterfall near Ubud. It might actually be the widest fall in Bali with a lot of flow. Others are taller but they’re not as massive compared to this. Go early in the morning to miss the crowds.

  1. Tirta Gannga

A very Instagram-worthy place (number 2 actually). Walking in the steps in the pool with massive fish swimming around is as fun as it looks in the photos. But do circumambulate and spend some time. It’s not just about this pool.

  1. Lempuyang

The super-duper-zuper Instagrammy place (number 1). The place is actually very average compared to so many other temples Bali has to offer and its smaller too.

The reflection photo is fake. There’s no water, it’s a just mirror held under the camera. If we could get a refund, we’d like one. The whole thing is protracted procedure of waiting in queue to get a fake picture clicked. It’s a must-skip according to us.

  1. Ulun Danu Beratan

Situated further north, this place takes time to reach. It’s an ornate temple sitting in a lake. You’re likely to get some stunning photos. You should definitely go if you have some time in your itinerary.

  1. Gili islands

You’ll need to take a fastboat to reach Gili. 3 hrs one-way which means a night in Gili is worth it unless you want to just rush.

Gili islands have a tropical vibe of their own. Sandy beaches lined with a lot of lovely restaurants and pubs. There are no vehicles on this island. Just rent bicycles and go around! It’s a popular spot to try diving. (Amed is better in our opinion). The snorkeling trip is worth too but bear in mind that it gets crowded, even in the water.

  1. Nusa Penida : Angel Billagong, Broken beach and T-Rex

You’ll need a fastboat to get here too. 1 hr one way. So a day trip should suffice. 2 days would be awesome anyway.

Angel Billabong and Broken beach are adjacent and they’re both magnificent. Waves in wild shades of blue crashing against the jagged coastline. Photos don’t do justice.

T-Rex (Kelingking beach) indeed looks like a T-Rex. Very instagrammy place but well deserved nevertheless. If you’re feeling intrepid, you can descend all the way to beach. It gets very steep and you have to use the railings to the full extent possible. But it’s worth it.

From the top, see if you’re lucky and can spot Mantas in the open ocean. There’s a separate snorkeling tour to see mantas if you have an extra day.

Other hits

  1. Campuhan ridge walk
  2. Besakih temple
  3. Goa Gajah
  4. Tirta Empul Temple
  5. Kintamani
  6. Tukad Cepung waterfalls
  7. Pura Mengening
  8. Taman Ayun
  9. Pandawa and Melasti beaches
  10. Suleban, Padang-padang, Dreamland and Jimbaran
  11. Waterblow
  12. GWK
  13. Lahangan sweet
  14. Taman Ujung
  15. Aling Aling waterfall
  16. Lovina beach
  17. Lovina dolphin tour
  18. Twin lakes: Tamblingan and Buyan
  19. Banyumala waterfalls
  20. Buddha vihara
  21. Banjar hot springs
  22. Melanting and other waterfalls

  23. Diamond beach : Nusa Penida

  24. Campuhan ridge walk There’s a gentle hike right in the town of Ubud. Its starts off under the bridge amidst lush green surroundings and gently ascends and is roughly 2 km long. Great for a morning or evening walk/run. You can have breakfast too at the quaint little restaurants enroute.

  25. Besakih temple The biggest and the most important temple for Balinese people. Actually its a temple complex with around 10 temples spread out on the slopes of mighty Agung. Involves fair amount of climbing and air feels colder due to altitude but really worth your time if you’re willing to go the distance.

  26. Goa Gajah A surprisingly beautiful Hindu and Buddhist temple complex very close to Ubud. Goa translates to *cave *in Indonesian. Although the cave itself is small, the entrance is special as you can see in the photo. There’s a small valley in the middle through which a stream runs through crashes down as a fall. Very picturesque.

  27. Tirta Empul Temple This is a temple that’s very popular with the locals particularly due to the hot water spring that it houses. If you want the local religious experience of taking a dip in Balinese attire overseen by a priest this is the place to do it. The spring and temple are nice to see but they won’t take your breath away.

  28. Kintamani If you’re not intending to climd Batur, then you should definitely try to atleast get to Kintamani. This place is situated on the outer rim of the volcano and you stand by the edge and see the massive caldera with the Batur mountain standing stoically in the middle. It is a sight indeed.

  29. Tukad Cepung waterfalls These waterfalls are some of the peculiar ones in Bali primarily because they are set in a rocky outcrop than the usual green landscapes. Makes for some great photos. Do carry flipflops to make it easier to walk on the river bed with sharp stones.

  30. Pantai Mengening / Pantai Cemagi Almost as beautiful as Tanah lot, a tenth of the crowd! A personal favourite for us. Do sit by the lovely little eateries and have a glass of Arak. More locals than tourists, so yes a must-visit place if you ask us.

  31. Taman Ayun Situated much deeper in central Bali, Taman Ayun is a temple not many tourists visit. It is also not closer to other attractions either. But if you do make it there, you’ll have chance to witness a temple that sits in the middle of a lake. Very silent, picturesque and vast. Once you’re done, walk 100m and you’ll find a surprising museum of Ogoh-Ogoh that’s filled with massive monstrous sculptures. Fun to see and take pictures. The place is mostly DIY. Switch on the lights, go around, make a donation and switch off lights.

  32. Pandawa and Melasti beaches If you’re going around the Uluwatu (southern most Bali) on a bike or a car, Pandawa and Melasti beaches should definitely be in your itinerary. The approach roads to these beaches are impressive with snaky turns that bring you down from the cliff to the beach fast. The beaches actually are very similar and if your must choose one, choose Melasti.

  33. Suleban, Padang-padang, Dreamland and Jimbaran The best places to Surf in Bali! Much nicer than Canggu. Much less crowded. They’re all similar to an extent (not from surfing PoV) in terms of the setting so you may want to choose 1 or 2 beforehand.

  34. Waterblow A small but popular attraction again in southern Bali. Here’s you’ll find waves crash against the jagged rocks and make a big splash. You’d need to be a certain amount lucky with the weather to be able to see it in full glory.

  35. GWK A big and unfinished theme park in southern Bali with a gargantuan (400ft) statue of Garuda Wishnu in the centre. The statue is so big that you can see it without entering the park. And that’s what you should do. Don’t bother wasting time and money at this place. It’s incomplete and feels unreasonable for the ticket’s price.

  36. Lahangan sweet If you have gathered the courage to skip the abomination that is Lempuyang, you should reward yourself with the gem of a secret that is Lahangan. Drive or ride through the hilly roads amidst clouds and complete the last stretch on walk and you’ll be at one of the most panoramic spot in all of Bali. The view of Agung from here is just jaw-dropping. And if you turned 180, the views of the ocean on the east are equally stunning. Highly recommended.

  37. Taman Ujung This is a place that isn’t usually on many tourists’ itinerary because it’s a little far off. It’s actually a water palace with multiple walkways built over small lake-sized water bodies. We’d put it in the ‘nice’ bucket. Tickets are also a little steep for a place that isn’t that big.

  38. Aling Aling waterfall This is actually a collection of waterfalls. 1 big and 3 smaller ones. The big one is indeed beautiful. It’s considered sacred so swimming is forbidden. You can however jump to your heart’s content in the other 3 all of which offer some really cool cliff jumping chances! The ticket price varies and they’ll charge you extra if you want to swim they’ll send a guide along. But if you ask us, you’re free to take a ticket without swimming and still go take a dip. It’s not like they have the right to stop you.

  39. Lovina beach and dolphin tour If you have traveled far and wide, you’d reach Lovina. And it’s exactly the kind of place you’d reach if you traveled far away from the crowds. Quiet, laidback. Time slows down in Lovina. :) There’s some tourist activity in the mornings, mostly about dolphin tours (nice but unethical IOU). But after that, its just peace and quiet. There’s only street that’s buzzing at night if you want to have a drink or 2.

  40. Twin lakes: Tamblingan and Buyan Situated in North Bali are these two giant lakes in the interior. There are trekking, biking and walking trails around both that you can do by yourselves. They’re safe, uncrowded and picturesque.

  41. Banyumala waterfalls Situated right in the valley opposite lakes is the Banyumala waterfall. An impressively tall waterfall that shines spectacularly in sunlight if you’re there at the right time. You should absolutely get into the big pool at the base of the fall. It’s shallow and much fun!

  42. Buddha vihara One of few Buddhist sites in Bali, the place features a few pagodas and statues. Serene and calm, just like all Buddhist places! You’re most likely going to club it with Banjar hot springs.

  43. Banjar hot springs If you’re looking for a nice warm dip and a free massage, this is the place to go. Doable as short day trip from Lovina, this place won’t take more than an hour of your time.

  44. Melanting and other waterfalls + Munduk There are four terrific waterfalls near Munduk (the closest village). Melanting, Labuhan Kebo, Red Coral and Golden Valley. All of them unique and spectacular. It takes a half a day’s worth of solid trekking to reach all 4. But the reward is worth the effort.

Munduk is a small village that is a delight in itself. Perhaps the only place in Bali that you’d classify as a hill station. Warm locals, silent streets, gorgeous mountain vistas on all sides. Munduk is probably what Bali was 20 years ago. Unspoilt, pristine and adventurous.

  1. Diamond beach : Nusa Penida If you have more than 1 day in Nusa Penida, then you’re likely to go here. The stairs down to the beach are stuff you see in movies. No exaggeration. It gets a little challenging in the end where you’ll have to rappel down a rope but its doable. And you should do it.

Remote

  1. Ijen: Java If you fancy seeing blue flames emanating from a volcano, then Ijen is probably the only place in the world. But it takes quite a ride from Bali, plus a ferry, plus a jeep to get here. It’s actually not in Bali but Java.

  2. Gilimanuk If you’re going to Ijen, then you’ll have to cross Gilimanuk. A small coastal town that’s an important port.

  3. Lombok A massive island on the east of Bali. Famous for surfing and the outrageously hard trek to mount Rinjani.